Modern RC cars have a huge amount of setup adjustments, and have even got to the point where changing the flexibility of components is seen as a valid setup change.
I call shenanigans. My touring cars have all driven the same after a few tweaks. The smoothness of the rear diff makes more difference to a car than a 0.5mm shim.
The one change that does make a real difference in a world of identikit cars is the transmitter settings. You could spend all day trying to lock the rear end in, or you could simply take a couple of clicks off the steering rate. If the car is too twitchy on turn in, take a little bit of steering expo out.
There is no reason to be afraid – modern TCs can turn far tighter than they would ever need to on a track. A car that flows through the apex is always going to be quicker than one that you are fighting.
This all assumes that your steering is set up with balanced linkages and even throw to full lock on both sides. Just don’t take it too far – 50% steering rates may make the car stable, but it won’t be able to steer around the track. If you car needs less than 80% rates or more than 20% expo to be driveable I’d take a good look at the build or the setup. It might be something as simple as a bent hinge pin or a loose screw that is ruining the handling, don’t assume that putting the car on a Hudy station will solve a build issue!